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This is the blog of CANTER New England. The blog will provide Thoroughbred lovers with:
• Information on retirement, and transitioning horses to life post-racing
• Details on assisting with horse welfare efforts
• Information on common questions from prospective adopters
• Success stories (and success stories that are waiting to happen!)
Thank you for visiting!
So…you’re thinking about getting an off-the-track-Thoroughbred (OTTB), but you’ve heard some things that concern you…
“They’re all lame”
“They’re all crazy”
“It will take you years to retrain one”
“OTTBs aren’t good on trails”
“OTTBs are hard keepers”
 In the interest of setting the record straight, we’re embarking on a little “myth busting”.Over the next few weeks we’ll talk about the myths–and the realities–of acquiring and retraining horses off the track.By the way: CANTER strongly urges anyone who is considering a horse off the track to have a pre-purchase exam done to ensure that the horse they are considering is suitable for the job that it will be asked to do. It can save you heart ache, and it’s only fair to the horse to understand any potential limitations.
We also suggest that you consider professional training assistance if you are not experienced with OTTBs.These are (generally) green horses that have been trained to do a job that’s likely quite different than what you’ll be asking of it…
All this said: there are thousands of talented, sane, gorgeous OTTBs out there just waiting for a chance to shine once their racing days are over. |
Myth Busting 101:
“It Will Take You Years to Retrain One!”
No, it won’t…if you have the requisite skills, time to devote to retraining, realistic goals and patience.
Start Where the Horse’s Head Is…
When considering how much of a project it is to retrain an OTTB, it is important to understand the horse’s frame of reference and experience.
OTTBs train most mornings, but their daily work generally involves walking to the track, jogging the wrong way for a quarter mile and turning to gallop off for a mile, give or take. Exercise riders are off of the horses back, and are usually not asking the horse to go on the bit. All horses on the track, with the exception of the horses jogging along the rail to start off their work, are going in the same direction and horses give each other a wide berth unless they are specifically working horses against one another in speed drills.
At a minimum, a prospective owner should educate themselves these basics of racehorse training, understanding what their normal routine involves and what challenges the trainer has encountered while working with the horse. If possible, speak with the horse’s groom and exercise rider too. They have very close contact with the horse and may be able to relate very important information about the horse’s temperament that will give you insight into potential challenges you could face away from the track.
Think about how much of a transition you’re expecting in what the horse’s new job will be…Are you seeking to ride in the ring most days? Are you seeking a happy trail buddy? Do you need a horse to master three-phase eventing? Is your goal to produce a winning equitation horse? Different goals, different levels of retraining required.
The “Who” Is Just As Important As the “What”
As you think about your long-term goals, it’s helpful to think about the specific skills that your horse needs to master in order to be successful at their new job…But, the experience level of the person undertaking the retraining is critical: and perhaps–more than any single factor–it can influence the duration and difficulty involved in the retraining process.
Since most OTTBs are available at modest prices, think about including some training money in your “acquisition budget”. Dig into the literature on online information about retraining OTTBs and consider committing to a routine for the first month or two that you work with your new horse. Be predictable and patient. And remember: even if you have retrained an OTTB in the past, they are all individuals and your experience with one may not be the experience that you have with another. A careful assessment of the horse’s personality, base level of training and physical state at the outset is an important starting point as you formulate a retraining plan.
(As a side note: we don’t recommend pairing a green horse and a green rider; so an OTTB coming directly from the track may not be the best choice for a child’s first horse, nor for a rider looking to get “back into horses”.)
Realistic Expectations
You wouldn’t expect a green horse to be “show ready” in a matter of a couple of months, but prospective OTTB owners often come to the track with the idea that they can take a prospect fresh-off-the-track horse for a few weeks and “get the track out of them”.
Apart from the psychological adjustment from track to farm, OTTBs are making a major physical adjustment to life away from the track…They are often very fit, with specific muscular development borne of explosive acceleration and brief periods of hard exertion. Contrast the physical transformation your are seeking in your OTTB with the muscular development that would be required of a green horse that had been standing in a field before coming into work…You aren’t starting from the same psychological or physiological baseline with an OTTB, green though they may be!
Mental Milestones Are Just As Important As Physical Achievements!
When you first bring your horse home, think about setting goals that are small, but attainable. And balance physical and mental milestones: exposure to new psychological challenges is every bit as important as working to reshape your horse’s physique.
What are reasonable goals for your horse? It’s impossible to give a good across-the-board answer to this question. Your horse may be young and fit and have raced only once or twice…he may be an old campaigner who has spent a number of years at the track, or, he could be coming off of an injury and require a program of rehabilitation.
The physique, metabolism and psyche of these three types of horses is likely to be very different, and require completely different approaches to retraining.
- Is your horse physically in good shape, but skittish and high-strung?
You may choose to devote early training to mental exercises designed to desensitize him before worrying about physical reconditioning.
- Is your horse stiff and sore on one side?
If your vet agrees, you may focus on stretching and balancing out the horse’s musculature for the first month or two in order to get your horse balanced and comfortable.
- Is your horse coming back from an injury?
Ensuring that the two of you don’t overdo it might be the single most important thing to remember when embarking on retraining.
Whatever the program you decide on, remember to note milestones and consider regular photos and videotape. It’s often hard to see a transformation taking place if you are around your horse day in and day out…Having a record of your progress is both educational and motivational.
A Few Basic Tasks to Master
No matter what your long-term goals for your new horse, there are a few essentials involved in the transition for almost any OTTB. Many of these retraining tasks are significant because they can help to ensure the horse’s long-term safety and health.
A few notable “essentials” to master:
- Adapting to blankets, new tack, cross-ties and turnoutIn many parts of the country horses–especially OTTBs fresh from the track–spend considerable time blanketed. Many blankets have leg straps, some have closed necks…this may be a new experience for the horse, but they must become accustomed to having blankets and sheets taken on and off without incident.
As we’ve noted in previous posts, horses at the track are often unaccustomed to saddles with rigid trees and may be sensitive to this pressure at first.While properly fitting tack is critical, the horse may still be somewhat “cold backed” initially.When first saddling an OTTB consider putting the girth on loosely and walking the horse–tightening one hole at a time–in order to minimize stress on the horse’s back.You may opt to lunge your horse to warm up his back, as well; just remember to balance time in both directions and keep in mind that lunging will be difficult for most OTTBs at first as they are often unbalanced when first coming off the track.
We’ve written about the introduction to cross-ties in previous articles and we won’t rehash all of that here, but it is important to note that horses at the track are not cross-tied. They are tied in their stalls while being groomed and saddled for their morning work. Careful introduction to cross-ties is important for your safety and your horse’s safety.
Proper introduction to turnout is also critical. Sadly, we’ve heard of cases where a new owner has taken a horse directly from the track and turned them loose in a large field only to have the horse injure themselves by running through a fence.
Remember that turnout is a new sensation to a horse coming from the racetrack, where 22-23 hours per day are spent in the stall. Do not assume that your new OTTB is familiar with anything but board fencing and walk the fence line with them before turning them out.
Electric tape-only fencing is not usually a suitable option for a horse coming from the track, nor is barbed wire ever a good option around horses.
- Learning to stand while being mounted, and to halt for any necessary adjustments to tackRemember: horses at the track are not mounted from the ground; in fact, exercise riders are usually given a leg up while the horse is moving forward. It is often an entirely new challenge for the horse to remain standing while a rider mounts.
In order to make these lessons successful, we suggest some safety precautions: as always, wear proper head gear; clear the area where you are mounting up of any debris which might pose a hazard–such as horses, wheel barrows, or rakes. Have a spotter on the ground available to assist you.
You may want to lunge, or at least turn your horse out for a time, to help release any excess energy before practicing mounting exercises.
- Focusing on training exercises while other horses are in close proximity
Many OTTBs are reactive to the sound of horses coming up behind them, or to the sight of a horse coming straight at them.While the eventual goal is to have your horse relaxed and paying attention to your aids no matter what is happening around you, working your OTTB with a limited number of horses, initially, may enable the horse to remain calm and focused.
Master relaxation one challenge at a time and expose your horse to other, new situations based on their stress level and be sure to review the tasks that your horse has mastered periodically as you progress.
Is your horse spooked by horses coming up behind him? Work in a controlled setting to master his anxiety–before you expose him to any other stresses. Keep initial training sessions short and remember that you must be relaxed if your horse is to be relaxed.
Is your new OTTB upset if horses are coming at him head-on? Consider starting with exercises at the walk, increasing the pace and bringing the horses closer as your OTTB becomes more relaxed seeing a horse coming head-on.
If, there is a specific problem that you just can’t resolve, consider getting help. It is not worth having you, or your horse, injured.
- Getting on and off a trailer without incidentMany OTTBs have ridden only in large, multi-horse vans. Riding in a two- or three-horse trailer may be an entirely new experience for them, especially the step-up variety.
Even if you are not planning on traveling much with your new horse, for safety’s sake it is important that your new OTTB become at ease with loading/unloading on your trailer (or the type of trailer that you’d likely use in the event of an emergency).
The last thing that you want to be faced with is a colicking or injured horse that is fighting you because they won’t get on the trailer to head to the veterinary hospital.
If you are not experienced training a horse to load, consider getting an experienced trainer, or friend to assist.
Remember to allocate plenty of time for practice and don’t forget that patience is key. Build these lessons into your regular routine until your horse is at ease, both loading and standing in the trailer.
- Moving in any direction in response to aids–including forward, backward and sideways
Going backwards and sideways at the racetrack isn’t encouraged…at least not that we’ve ever seen. That said, for safety’s sake a rider must teach their mount to respond to, and move away from leg pressure, in any direction required.
Getting this lesson down pat before you embark on your first trail ride is critical. Start on the ground if the horse seems confused or reluctant under saddle. The important thing is that you feel able to control the horse’s movement safely and predictably before you head out to face new challenges.
Remember the “OTTB Advantage!”
OTTBs are noted for their intelligence; over the years we’ve had countless owners tell us that “once my horse learned a lesson, I never had to repeat it.” Give your horse the opportunity to master new skills at a comfortable pace and they will build confidence in themselves, and in you. The end result of careful and patient training at the start is often a less reactive horse in any new situation at the end of the day.
- The key to consistent progress? Very often it is simply to ensure that you don’t overface the animal; build on small successes and the big ones will follow.
- Have a plan. Setting very specific goals and riding with an eye toward mastering core skills that are central to the horse’s new career can help to ensure that you maximize progress.
- Build in fun. Progress in retraining usually isn’t linear. And your new OTTB needs to enjoy their new job. Make sure that you don’t overdo it in your retraining efforts.
Okay, Okay…So How Long Will This All Take?
No one can confidently say “Oh…retraining an OTTB takes six months…” (or three months, or three years, for that matter). We’ve seen horses win ribbons at shows just six weeks after leaving the track. We’ve also seen horses that took a full year or more to relax away from the track.
In the final analysis, we often see that the key to a smooth, successful transition centers on: 1) understanding where your horse’s major “road blocks” lie, be they physical or mental; 2) setting out a consistent plan for tackling them in a manageable, enjoyable training program that builds on success, and 3) adapting your training plan to meet the horse’s evolving physical and psychological needs.
And perhaps we should have said this first: but know that your horse’s underlying character will also have a big part to play in the pace of retraining. If you appreciate raw talent in a particular horse, but note that the animal is more reactive than usual, chances are that your path to the show ring may be longer than if you were to choose a less flashy, but more settled horse–even if that mount may lack a bit in raw talent.
Deciding what trade-offs you are willing to make as you consider how much retraining an OTTB takes is important to a successful partnership. In the end we often see that OTTB owners enjoy the retraining as much as the end goal.
Eli, registered name “Elusive Image” is a quirky, funny, smart horse who is just figuring out that there has been a sea
c hange in his life. No more starting gates, no more morning gallops.
He spends his days in a big field, “watching…watching everything” says his foster Mom. For a time actually thought that he could take on the field boss, a giant black draft horse with feet like dinner plates, and different ideas about who should be first to the gate at dinner time.
You gotta love an OTTB…if nothing else, they’ve got spunk!
Eli is being fostered by a wonderful woman named Christine, who is, degree by degree, convincing Eli that being kissed on the nose is not really an affront to his dignity. And that grooming might actually be an enjoyable activity.
He looks, in unguarded moments, like a big, rather hairy puppy.
Eli has mastered the art of standing still for grooming on the cross-ties–though with an audience he halfheartedly shuffled around a bit in our presence as if to say “Do you guys really have to stand and watch me get fussed over???”
He seems to me to exude the aura of a 50 year old bachelor farmer: longing for love but completely at a loss about embracing it. If I squint, in my mind’s eye, I swear that I can actually see Eli and Garrison Keillor walking the streets of Lake Woebegone…
We went out last weekend to visit Eli and see him show off his new skills. He is remarkably quick to pick up on voice commands, and though he’d clearly never had anyone lunge before Christine began working with him, he did just fine. The footing in the outdoor ring is a bit hard, so we didn’t push him–except to insist that he stay focused on his job. He seemed to look over at his foster Mom at times with a “save me!” look on his face, but never wavered.
He is going to be a very special horse once he finds “his person” and begins to trust that he won’t always be “claimed away” and walked to a new barn at the drop of a slip, as soon as someone is willing to pay the tag placed on his head.
And while he is a willing learner, he will have to relax into his new job enough to find real pleasure in it.
Eli is the kind of horse–the kind of OTTB–that really touches my heart: one that worked long and hard at his job, learned reserve, and survived. He’s sound and quite hardy, though his legs reflect a life spent working.
Now he has his chance to thrive in a new life where his personality, as much as his physical abilities, will be appreciated and embraced. I cannot wait for that day–cannot wait to know that he will find his “forever”.
Godspeed Eli. You’ve earned that chance.
I am working on a longer post in the OTTB Myth Busting series, but I thought that I’d just take a quick minute to start a list that will take my mind off of this storm: here’s a short list of what I love about OTTBs.
- Admit it: they’re simply gorgeous!
- Who else will run across a pasture at 40mph to say hello to you at the end of a hard day???
- They’re athletic (I know, stating the obvious, right?)
- After years of one-on-one with a groom, they get the “you’re MY human” thing…
- They try hard, even when they’re: tired, don’t understand what you want, would rather not do what you’re asking…
- My OTTB is sooo comfortable to canter around a field on!
- My OTTB is a pro for the farrier, dentist and vet (she had a lot of experience with that growing up)
- I know more about my OTTB’s family tree than I do about my own…and she has more important ancestors too!
- Nothing is an ice breaker at a party like saying “I ride an ex-racehorse”
- She’s smart and quick to learn, which keeps me thinking when I ride
Just my quick list…What’s on yours?
A checklist for the prospective owner…
Here is a checklist for the prospective new OTTB owner based on questions we are often asked: “how do I find a Thoroughbred to purchase?”… “how do I negotiate the purchase?”…” what should I know about getting the horse home safely?”…and “what do I need to think about the first few days home?”
This piece is also informed by the direct feedback that we’ve gotten over the years from buyers. Many note that shopping for a horse on the backside for the first time can be overwhelming, especially as they felt that they didn’t always know what questions to ask… And our cautions about choosing the right horse, not the flashy horse, are prompted, sadly, by the number of calls we’ve received from buyers regretting the purchase of a horse that they liked, but which was not the best fit for their goals and abilities.
The list isn’t comprehensive of course, but we hope that it’s helpful!
1. Describe Your Ideal Prospect
“Must Have’s”…” Nice to Have’s”…”Will Be Happy to Have’s”…
Before you read the descriptions…before you even look at the photos…Sit down and make a list of the qualities that your new horse: a) Must have; b) Should have; c) Might have, if fate shines on you.
Bringing home a horse is, obviously, a significant commitment and it is very easy to get swept up in how stunning a horse looks out galloping on the track. It’s an entirely different matter to bring that horse home and begin retraining. Knowing what you want, and–more importantly–what you cannot accept in your new horse, may save you much disappointment, time and money.
As you begin shopping, especially if you’ve never purchased a horse on the backside before, we urge you to ask questions–specific questions–as terminology and point of view can affect how a horse is described. For example, a trainer may say “the horse is sound”; what “sound” means to the trainer may, or may not, be your definition of sound. Is sound: “never had a pimple on him”, or is it “he’s not lame right now”? And things like cribbing are often overlooked at the track, but may be a big problem to a prospective buyer. So instead of asking “does the horse have any vices?”, ask “does the horse crib” if that is a deal breaker for you.
2. Remember to Include the Following in Your Budget:
a. Money for purchase (trainers do not generally lease horses, trade horses, or take payments; if you say that you want to buy the horse, they expect cash)
b. Money for transport (even gas money can add up if you’re hauling long-distances)
c. Pre-purchase exam (cost can vary greatly depending upon what you want done–basic flexions/eye exam/some x-rays–to hundreds for a full workup including blood work, full x-rays, scoping, etc. Note that not all trainers will allow a horse to be scoped, for example…so please be clear on what you would want to do for an exam before the vet is standing there next to the horse to avoid any problems.)
d. Trainer’s fees (if you aren’t experienced restarting an OTTB, you may want to consider engaging trainer help)
e. Any new tack/equipment to fit the new horse (bear in mind that your OTTB may change shape a great deal over the first year of transition, especially, so the saddle that fits well the day you bring him home, may not be such a great fit down the road…and if your tack cannot be adjusted sufficiently, you’ll need new equipment)
3. Evaluate the Available Horses & Narrow Down Your List
Make a list of several prospects of interest and call the trainers. Be sure to think about:
- Temperament
–On a scale of 1 – 10, 1 being half-dead, 10 being a raging bull, how does the horse stack up? Keep in mind that the definition of “quiet” on the backside may not be the same definition you may have in mind; that is why spending a bit of time with the horse is critical.
- Physical injuries/conformation
–Ask about current issues, and past problems–does the horse have “old ankles” or a “set bow”, has the horse had any breathing issues that necessitated a “tie-back”, etc. At a minimum, ask about: joints, wind, and feet.
–Ask the trainer how long they’ve had the horse and how it came into their barn. Did the trainer claim it from someone else at the same track? Did they buy it at auction? Breed it? You want to know just how much history the trainer has with the horse; if it’s a very recent acquisition and the trainer is selling, it may mean that they “made a bad claim” — that is, they claimed a horse out of a race who turned out to have a soundness issue…of course it may simply turn out that the horse isn’t that talented a runner, or the owner who claimed the horse ran into financial issues and cannot continue paying the bills, but it’s something to consider, either way.
–Bear in mind, you’re usually looking at one or two photos of a horse that may hide or exaggerate problems…So do be prepared for an incredible looking photo to be just that…and know that you may be pleasantly surprised that some horses who didn’t photograph well might be stunning in person!
- Race record
–How many times has the horse run? When did they start racing: 2? 3? older? A horse that ran many times as a 2 year old may be just fine, but it’s also possible that much stress on a very young horse will have taken a toll…Likewise, a horse that hasn’t started until the age of 4 may have been sidelined by an injury. Ask if you see anything unusual.
–You may want to get a start-by-start report from brisnet.com or equibase.com; they’re about $5 and can reveal any gaps in the horse’s racing history.
- Training Routine
–Every trainer has their own method of training horses; understanding what the horse’s routine has been before you bring it home can help you formulate an effective transition plan.
–It’s worth noting that some trainers actually gallop their own horses. If you do find that to be the case with the prospect that you’re considering, ask them what the horse is like under tack, what kind of bit is used with the horse, and if the horse has any quirks. Better to know that before you sit on them, than not!
Some trainers are more willing to talk on the phone than others; if you are very interested in a horse don’t necessarily rule it out because the trainer isn’t chatty.
And a plea from us: if you’re not really considering buying a horse NOW, if you don’t have the funds to acquire a horse NOW and haven’t secured stall space to bring home that horse NOW…Please don’t call the trainer. When they list the horse they are usually hoping to move the animal ASAP.
They get many, many calls from folks who aren’t really seriously shopping–folks who “just liked the photo” of a particular animal, or who want a horse–but not for six months.
That discourages trainers from listing and, in the end, it hurts the horses. |
4. Make a Trip to the Track
Remember: there are likely to be many horses for sale, and over the course of a meet, hundreds will be listed. Be clear about your “must have…can’t have” list and take enough time that you settle on a horse that really will suit your needs.
When you buy a horse at the track, assume that you own it for better or worse–generally the trainer will not take the horse back.
- Bring the printout of the horses you were most interested in seeing, and what it was about them that appealed to you (if you are accompanied by a CANTER volunteer this is especially helpful as we may be able to suggest other horses meeting your criteria, or even to tell you about a brand new listing, not even on the site yet)
- Bring camera, pens, sunscreen, notepaper (you may see as many as 10-15 horses in the space of a few hours–so taking good notes, extra photos, even video of a horse jogging out, is important)
- Wear comfortable shoes, you’ll be walking!
- Dress in layers; Suffolk is near the ocean, so in the spring it can start out cool and get quite hot in the space of an hour, or two; or vice-versa in the fall…
- Bring 4-leaf clover/lucky hat/etc.
- Bring information on vet, transporter, and barn owner (if boarding), in case you have any questions…
- Dragging along an objective friend, or your trainer, is good for a second opinion and to compare notes; when you see a number of horses in a short amount of time you may overlook some things
5. Make Another Trip to the Track…
It’s a good idea to consider making several trips to the track if you find yourself overwhelmed the first time around. It’s true that you may risk losing a prospect, but if you are not truly sure set on a particular horse, the old adage “act in haste, repent at leisure” may end up applying to you!
If you are seriously interested in a horse, ask the trainer when a horse will next go to the track. Arrange to come back to watch the horse gallop. Spend time watching the horse cool out after their morning work, and watch the groom work around the horse. (Grooms can be a great source of information about a horse. Remember that the horse’s groom handles him day in, and day out and they can tell you much about the horse’s character.)
Keep in mind that the horse you see at the track is not the same horse that you’ll be dealing with on the farm after they’ve “let down”.
At Suffolk, you’re likely seeing a horse that is very fit, stalled 22-23 hours per day, consuming lots of high-energy feed and one that is asked to be physically on the muscle in order to do his job.
Once home, you can change their diet and turn them out to let off steam. Nonetheless: there’s a high likelihood that a horse that is “hot, hot, hot” at the track will never evolve into a dead quiet, bombproof trail horse…
Remember: the goal is to buy a horse that meets your needs. That may, or may not be the athletic, fiery 3 year old prospect you saw in the listings…you know, the one with the gorgeous photo…
If your goal is to trail ride 2-3 times per week, that 6 or 7 year old plain bay with more of a “been there, done that” attitude may be a much more pleasant partner than the wild-eyed dapple gray that must be galloped by the strongest exercise rider in the barn.
6. Vetting Your Prospect
It’s possible, though not usual, to have a private veterinarian come do a PPE on the backside. Most prospective buyers rely on one of the vets already working on the backside to examine their potential purchase. You need to ask the trainer of a given horse who their regular vet is, as that vet will not do a PPE on a client’s horse in order to avoid any conflict of interest.
At a minimum, have flexions done and request that the vet check the horse’s vision, breathing, teeth and feet. As part of a basic check buyers will request that a vet x-ray anything that looks suspicious on flexion.
We strongly recommend that you do x-rays if you are seeking a jumping prospect. It is possible that a horse that jogs sound could have knee, or ankle chips that aren’t interfering with the joint, and will only become apparent if films are done.
If the horse is a claimer that hasn’t been in the barn long, or that came from another track, the present trainer may not know the horse’s health/soundness history, so even the most honest trainer may be unaware of a significant past injury if the horse has not remaining outward manifestation of the problem.
It’s worth noting that horses at the track are very often shod with a long toe/low heel approach and may have racing plates on that have toe grabs and/or heel caulks. It’s very likely that your farrier will suggest changing these angles, with the goal of working toward a more balanced hoof. Be sure to take this slowly: changing the angles too quickly can cause lameness and stress ligaments and tendons.
7. Negotiating the Purchase
We do not suggest bringing a big wad of cash to the track unless you are at the point of making the purchase. However, you may want to discuss payment with the trainers when you speak with them on the phone so you’ll know what your options are should you decide that you do like a given horse.
Travelers checks may be accepted at the bookkeeper’s office and put the money into the trainer’s account by signing those over. Call the main number for the track, and ask for the office. They can offer advice.
There are also banks in close proximity to the track, so if you do buy a horse, you may opt to go to a branch or ATM to withdraw funds once the price and terms are agreed upon.
Trainers do not generally accept checks, nor will sell a horse on an installment plan. And, unless the listing specifically states something to the contrary, assume that the horse is for sale, and not for lease.
While prices may be somewhat negotiable, please be tactful when making an offer. From the trainer’s perspective you are not “rescuing” their horse, you are looking to buy a prospect.
When making the offer, bear in mind that the degree of flexibility in price will vary depending upon the time of year (less negotiable at the start of the meet, more flexible at the end, by and large,) the soundness, size, age, movement and temperament of the horse in question.
Perhaps most importantly: if the horse is hitting the board at times and just covering their bills, the trainer may be willing to sit and wait for a higher offer. If the trainer has another prospect ready to fill the stall, however, he may just decide to cut his losses and accept a somewhat lower offer than he might otherwise.
The race record of a horse can also affect the price a trainer will accpet. Horses run in restricted races under certain circumstances, where competition is often less stiff. If a horse has never won a race, he is eligible to enter into a “maiden race” with other non-winners. Likewise, if he has never won two or three races, he can enter into a “Non-Winners of Two Lifetime”/”Non-Winners of Three Lifetime”.
Once a horse has won three races, they “graduate” to “open” company, where competition can be much stiffer. At this point, the trainer may find that rehoming his charge may make the most sense as the horse may not have the ability to compete in “open” company, where there are fewer eligibility restrictions.
One final note on making your purchase: please know that CANTER never gets involved in negotiations. We are not brokers; we are merely acting as informational agents to make prospective owners aware of horses needing to transition off of the track.
8. Before You Bring Your New Horse Home…
Vaccinations/Worming
Horses at the track are often not given more than the mandatory rabies vaccination, so be sure to ask if the horse has had shots, and which shots were given.
In particular, if you are planning on bringing the horse to a boarding facility, ask if strangles is required and if West Nile is recommended. Some vaccinations require multiple dosages, so even if you do an initial set at the track before you bring the horse home, follow-up may be required.
The horse may not be on the same worming schedule as horses at your barn, so you may opt to worm the horse as soon as it arrives home, and then get it on the same rotation as all other horses on the property.
Horses are the track are required to have an up to date Coggins, but check the date to see if it is due to expire soon. You may opt to have a new one pulled at the track. During racing season the courier for the lab comes often, so getting a Coggins done at the track may be faster than on the farm.
Diet
Find out how much the horse is eating, when and how the horse is fed (is it split evenly between two feedings? or is the horse fed differently morning/night?) and learn about the percentage of protein/fat/carbohydrates in the feed so that you can make a slow transition to a new routine.
Some horses at the track are fed a “complete” fed and are not fed hay. Introducing a full hay ration to these horses and shifting them to more traditional feeds does require careful attention as their gut is not used to processing the same volume of roughage. If you bring home a horse that has been eating a “complete” feed, pay careful attention to their water consumption.
Work Routine/Fitness
Horses in active training may be galloping as much as two miles per day. Plan your transition to accommodate a gradual shift in activity level. Ensuring that the horse remains active can minimize behavioral issues, and can help to avoid any physical problems, such as colic.
A Note About Horses Coming Back from Injury or Out of Training:
Ask the trainer what the horse’s work routine has been; this is especially important if they were trying to bring the horse back from an injury and decided that it wouldn’t hold up to the stress of racing. If the horse is not totally fit, you don’t want to let the horse overdo it under saddle, or in turnout, once home.
While most of the horses you’ll see listed are in active training, that is not always the case. For example, the horse may only be doing 45 minutes on the walking machine if the trainer doesn’t want to pay an exercise rider to gallop a horse that they’ve decided will not race again.
Feet
If your new horse has racing plates on, consider pulling them before bringing the horse home, or at least before turning the horse out. Toe grabs and heel caulks can catch in turnout and cause an ankle injury, and aluminum plates are slippery. Even if do not pull front shoes immediately, pulling back shoes is a good safety measure–both for other horses and for you.
The horse has only been walking from his stall to a sandy track to train, so be cautious about turnout if your paddocks/pasture are rocky. It is very common horses to bruise a foot when first brought home, which may result in significant lameness and even an abscess.
Tack
Find out what equipment your horse wears when training and racing; you may not need to make many adjustments in the horse’s equipment, or you may find that you need to experiment a bit to find the right configuration for your horse.
There are some styles of racing bits not commonly seen off the track, but many Thoroughbreds actually race in snaffle bits.
Remember, too, that horses on the track train and race in lightweight, treeless saddles. So the introduction of a regular saddle and long stirrups will be a new sensation.
Good fit and adequate padding are critical. Horses at Suffolk are galloping over a deep track, so may have some muscle soreness in the back and hind end; ill fitting tack may cause the horse to react badly when first tacked up.
Horses at the track are also very tightly girthed for races; “girthiness” can be common. You may want to start off with the girth very loose and gradually tighten as you walk the horse for a few minutes at the start of a training session. This is also a helpful practice if the horse is a bit muscle sore along their topline, as it gives the horse’s back time to warm up.
9. Getting Your New Horse Home…
Trailering
Many buyers own trailers and plan on transporting their new horse home. Do ask the trainer if the horse has ever been on a two- or three-horse trailer, if that is what you plan on using to bring home your new horse.
It may be the case that the horse has only ever ridden in a “big rig”: those 18-wheelers that you may have seen on the highway carrying large loads of horses over long distances.
If the horse has not been on a smaller trailer, it may take time, patience and even a dose of tranquilizer from the vet to coax them on. While you may opt to use shipping boots, it’s very possible that these may actually cause the horse to kick out in an effort to get them off, if they’ve never worn them before. Standing wraps and quilts may be a better choice, as it’s more probable that the horse has had these on at some point.
And do be careful when unloading: make sure that you have assistance and try to have someone guide the horse so that they don’t run off the side of the ramp if they back out quickly. This is doubly important if you’ve tranquilized the horse to get it on the trailer, as it may not be completely steady on its feet.
If you do not have transport and need to find a shipper, there are several options listed on the “Resources” page of the canterne.org site.
Signing Out Your New Horse
Before you leave the track, you’ll have to sign out your new horse, putting down your vehicle’s and trailer’s license numbers. You may want to go to the security office and sign out the horse before you actually load the horse so that there are no delays once you have them on the trailer.
10. Home Sweet Home!
A few suggestions to make those first days go smoothly:
- It’s a good idea to quarantine (or at least ensure no direct contact) between your new horse and the horses at your facility. While horses at the track are generally quite healthy–any signs of illness are usually dealt with right away to minimize the chance of contaminating the whole shedrow–an ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure
- Don’t turn your new horse out in a large field right away, especially if the horse is alone. If the horse panics they may injure themselves
- Do not assume that the horse knows what electric fencing is; if your paddocks only have electric fencing, be sure to introduce them to it slowly, and walk the perimeter with them several times so that they know the limits of the turnout area
- It’s a good idea to ensure that your new horse is able to see other horses while in turnout, initially. If you only have two horses on your property and plan on taking your first horse out on a ride, you may want to throw your new OTTB back in his stall to keep him from getting worked up
- If it’s fly/mosquito season, be prepared to douse your new OTTB in fly spray. At the track they remove waste quickly and there are not many bugs–so your horse may end up breaking out in big welts until they get accustomed to turnout “on the farm”. Pay careful attention to this, as a horse that is oversensitive to bug bites may run themselves into a lather in no time!
- If you plan on working the horse on the ground: it is not usually the case that OTTBs know how to lunge or work in long lines. There are exceptions, of course–but be cautious until you have a sense of your horse’s level of experience with this type of training
- As you begin to ride your new horse, pay extra attention to where other horses may be in proximity to your mount; while many horses may gallop on the track at one time, they are generally at a distance and all are going in the same direction. It may be a new sensation for your horse to have others coming at them head on, for example
- Make sure that you get your horse’s teeth done as quickly as possible if the vet has indicated that the horse is overdue. It’s very common for horses at the track to have some points. Addressing this will help the transition to working on the bit more comfortable for the horse, and more successful for you as a rider
Good luck finding your next prospect!
Horse Health Topics
This is part of a new series on OTTB health exploring common injuries, issues and concerns of interest to prospective Thoroughbred owners.
A Disclaimer: Of course we’re not veterinarians; we urge you to speak with a qualified professional about the prognosis of the particular horse that you are considering.
|
Bowed Tendons, A Definition:
A “bowed” tendon is named for the bow shape the back side of the lower limb (usually the front) develops because of swelling in the tendon. There are two tendons that run down the back of the leg. The one nearer the skin and the one that usually “bows” is the superficial digital flexor tendon. The one nearer the cannon bone is the deep digital flexor tendon. The suspensory ligament runs from the knee (or hock) to the ankle, and lies between the deep digital flexor tendon and the cannon bone. It provides support to the ankle during the weight-bearing phase of the stride. — From Dr. Lydia Gray’s SmartPak blog
 Note the superficial and deep flexor tendons and supporting ligamentary structures. What Should I Ask If I See That a Listed Horse Has a Bowed Tendon?
Bowed tendons are one of the injuries that we commonly see when taking CANTER New England listings.
The majority of bows in racehorses are seen are in the front legs; so for the purposes of this discussion, we’ll focus on front leg injuries.
If you’ve looked at the listings and see a tendon injury mentioned you’ll have noted a very critical piece of information: whether it’s a “fresh” or “set” (also called “cold”) bow…that is, did the horse recently sustain the injury, or is it healed and not presenting any current problem for the horse?
If you come to see a listed horse that has a recently bowed tendon you may find that the horse is three-legged lame, or only slightly off. Much depends upon the length of time since the injury, the degree of tearing and tissue damage suffered, the extent to which supporting ligaments and joints are involved and the post-injury care given the horse.
Be sure to ask how and when the injury was suffered:
- Did the horse bow in a race, or was the injury suffered in training?
- Is the injury a primary tendon injury, or did the horse rebow (reinjure) the tendon?
- Did the horse strike the tendon with a back foot?
If the horse did strike a front tendon with a hind foot during a race, or while training, it’s important to note whether or not there is an actual wound associated with the tendon injury.
If the horse actually cut the leg with a hind shoe, you want to understand whether or not the sheath surrounding the tendon was damaged, as infections in this structure can be quite serious.
As a Note: You may see a horse that has a “bandage bow” where there is significant lameness and swelling. A true “bandage bow” does not involve actual tearing of the tendon fibers, but bruising and swelling of the tissues, instead.
How Does a Horse Bow a Tendon?
According to Dr. Greg Andrews, cited in a Grayson Jockey Club article:
“There are various degrees of bowed tendons, from mild tearing that you can hardly detect, to completely torn (severed). The injury can be due to hyper extension of the fetlock joint (putting great stress on the tendons), usually during performance, and often associated with fatigue. When a horse gets tired, his legs have less muscle control; fatigued muscles are no longer working smoothly, and give less support to the leg. The fetlock joint may go clear to the ground as the horse is running.”
When a tendon is overstretched, or “bowed” the fibers of the tendon–which are normally smoothly aligned down the length of the tendon–are disrupted. Because the fibers of the tendon don’t heal back to this original, smooth orientation and due to the formation of scar tissue, the tendon loses some of its elasticity.
Bows may occur at any point along the tendon and you will commonly see the bow described as “high”, “middle” or “low”. A “high” bow may be accompanied by injury to ligaments in the knee; conversely a “low” bow may occur in conjunction with injury to the suspensory ligaments around the fetlock.
When the vet ultrasounds the injury they may find a focal point of damage–a “core lesion”–or scattered damage throughout the tendon structure. Injuries to the superficial flexor tendon are more common, and generally have a better prognosis, than injuries to the deep flexor tendon.
A horse may suffer a tendon strain in training if they are pushed before fit enough, or pushed when they are fatigued. If the horse is not rested at this point, they may suffer a true bow.
How Are Bowed Tendons Treated?
When considering a horse with a bow, the vet may suggest an ultrasound of the leg to determine the degree of tendon damage, and to ascertain if there is involvement of (suspensory and other) ligaments. They may also suggest x-rays to understand if bony structures, such as the horse’s sesamoids, were damaged at the time of the injury.
If you do take on a horse with a tendon injury, your vet will likely want to do periodic ultrasounds in order to check on the progress of healing, suggesting adjustments to the horse’s rehabilitation program based on ultrasound findings.
Care of the horse’s leg after the bow may involve cold hosing for sessions up to 20 minutes in duration, wrapping to offer support to the front legs, and administration of both systemic and topical anti-inflammatory drugs to help relieve pain and swelling.
Other treatments are available, including use of stem cells, bone marrow or plasma injections. Shock wave therapy may be used as an adjunct to other treatments. If the tendon sheath is involved, the vet may suggest the injection of hyaluronic acid.
If you are considering a horse with a bow you should discuss the options with a veterinarian: some treatments are only effective during a specific window of time, post-injury and may vary widely in cost. It may be that the vet will simply suggest continued use of hosing and anti-inflammatories, with a controlled rehabilitation program.
Depending upon the severity and newness of the injury the veterinarian will suggest a specific rehabilitation regimen to ensure that the horse maintains proper circulation in the leg and to minimize adhesions in the healing tendon.
What Is The Long-Term Prognosis for Horses with Bowed Tendons?
Horses with “cold” or “set” bows do sometimes return to racing after the initial injury is healed and compete without suffering any further complications, though they may be less competitive than previously.
However, it may not be economically viable to rehabilitate a lower-level claiming horse and bring it back to racing as it can take 9 – 12 months to fully recover from a tendon injury. In these cases the owner and trainer will often opt to retire a horse, or list it on CANTER New England.
Many horses that do return to the stress of racing after a bow do reinjure the tendon. Whether they suffer a simple strain, or actually rebow the tendon, some of these horses can still be useful in pleasure careers.
What do the experts say about the outlook for a horse with a tendon injury? You can find a great deal of literature on the Internet about the management and rehabilitation of equine tendon injuries. However, since there are many factors to consider in each individual case, it may be difficult to generalize these findings to the specific horse that you are considering.
“Your horse’s prognosis depends on many factors, including the structure involved and the severity and extent of the initial injury. For example, a 20% tear of the deep digital flexor tendon yields a much poorer prognosis than a 20% tear of the superficial digital flexor tendon.
Current and intended use of your horse also plays a role. For example, a Thoroughbred racehorse with a 30% tear of his superficial digital flexor tendon may not return to racing, but could become a successful hunter.” — Dr. William Pritchard, UC Davis
Over the years we have seen many horses with tendon injuries listed through CANTER New England go on to have successful second careers with proper rehabilitation, patient handling and good management.
Management of a horse recovered from a tendon injury includes special attention to:
- Good farrier care, ensuring that toes do not get overly long between trimmings and that the foot hits the ground squarely;
- Sufficient warm-up before any strenuous work;
- Careful attention to fitness so that the horse’s muscles are able to support the tendons and ligaments properly in the work that will be asked of the horse.
The bottom line: many horses with tendon injuries are quite capable of having good second careers, which often includes use as jumping horses. But each injury and horse can present a very different prognosis, so careful evaluation by a veterinarian familiar with OTTBs can help you understand if the horse that you are considering will be physically able to hold up to the job you have in mind.
Here are some references to provide further information:
Evaluating treatment choices for tendon, ligament injury and joint disease in the horse (Dr. Kenneth Marcella, DVM Newsmagazine)
A web reference from the UC Davis Veterinary Teaching Hospital — Dr. William Pritchard that includes examples of ultrasound images
Wikipedia page on Tendonitis in Horses
So…you’re thinking about getting an off-the-track-Thoroughbred (OTTB), but you’ve heard some things that concern you…
“They’re all lame”
“They’re all crazy”
“It will take you years to retrain one”
“OTTBs aren’t good on trails”
“OTTBs are hard keepers”
| In the interest of setting the record straight, we’re embarking on a little “myth busting”.Over the next few weeks we’ll talk about the myths–and the realities–of acquiring and retraining horses off the track.
By the way: CANTER strongly urges anyone who is considering a horse off the track to have a pre-purchase exam done to ensure that the horse they are considering is suitable for the job that it will be asked to do. It can save you heart ache, and it’s only fair to the horse to understand any potential limitations.
We also suggest that you consider professional training assistance if you are not experienced with OTTBs.These are (generally) green horses that have been trained to do a job that’s likely quite different than what you’ll be asking of it…
All this said: there are thousands of talented, sane, gorgeous OTTBs out there just waiting for a chance to shine once their racing days are over. |
Myth Busting 101:
“They’re All Crazy!”
No, they’re not.
But it is important to note that OTTBs are bred and trained to react quickly and operate at full speed much of the time…A racing-fit horse is tightly tuned to enable explosive physical effort during a race. To support the training regimen they are often fed large amounts of high-protein feed. Runners are typically stalled 22-23 hours per day; they are not allowed to partake of the horse behaviors typically enjoyed during the hours of daily turnout that are the norm for horses “on the farm”. And they have different “basics” — learning how to be saddled in a stall, not on the cross-ties–for example.
So, the prospective OTTB owner:
- Must have a transition plan;
- Should understand their own level of ability and level of interest in/commitment to retraining, and set goals accordingly;
- Needs to accommodate the physical & physiologic transition of the horse as it transforms from a racing machine on high-octane fuel to its new job. Ensure that you know what your horse was eating at the track and slowly transition to a lower-protein feed (and likely smaller quantities of that feed!) in order to help “let down” your horse. Do be cautious: you do not want your new horse to drop weight, and you may need to experiment to find the optimum nutritional regimen for your horse.
Understanding of the OTTB’s past training should help a new owner to avoid potential problems. There are good resources available on retraining ex-racers; we’ve listed a widely-read book at the end of this article.
Is My New Horse Crazy, or Is He Simply Adjusting?
First: let’s cover some things that folks might mean by “crazy” when referring to OTTBs …Does “crazy” mean:
“He freaked out on the cross-ties and almost killed himself!”
At the track horses are tied in their stalls when being groomed and saddled. Unless they’ve had experience on a farm and been trained to cross-tie–which is the exception, not the rule–you will need to teach them the basics:
- Introduce your horse to cross-ties slowly; consider attaching only one side at first–holding the lead line in your other hand. Groom the horse on the cross-ties until he relaxes. Once he is consistently comfortable you can experiment with letting the horse feel a bit of pressure–so that they understand the “limits” of the cross-ties. Eventually you can attach both sides, being sure that the cross-ties have safety break-away features.
- Remember not to leave them alone on the cross-ties until you are sure that they are comfortable and won’t spook when cross-tied. When you are first working with the horse attached on both sides remember not to walk away. Gather your brushes and tack and have them ready to go so that you prepare and tack up the horse, then move them off the cross-ties, without incident.
- Ensure that there are no hazards in the immediate area where you cross-tie your horse, including pitch forks, trash bins, hoses on the floor, etc.
“He panicked when I went to mount him and put my foot in the stirrup!”
Horses at the track are generally not used to mounting blocks, nor to having a rider get on from the ground.
Often the exercise rider is given a leg while the horse is walking forward, so the horse doesn’t feel a rider’s weight tugging on a stirrup. He’s probably not accustomed to standing still while being mounted and the rider is up *fast*.
Horses at the track are also exercised (and race in) treeless, lightweight saddles.
When tackling mounting once home, a traditional english saddle with a spring tree may be a new sensation, as will be the job of standing while mounted.
Patience is required to train the horse to stand quietly. You may want to consider mounting from a block to minimize torque on the horse’s back from the saddle if you first work to master standing still.
“My horse is totally fixated on his turnout buddy and panics if they are separated”
OTTBs often haven’t been turned out with other horses from the time that they are 18-24 months old…So their social skills can be a bit stunted. Often folks new to OTTBs expect that they will be dominant and somewhat aggressive with new turnout buddies…
They are surprised to find that is quite often not the case. OTTBs often end up as low man on the totem pole, in fact. So pick turnout buddies carefully and “go slowly” when introducing your new OTTB to potential turnout mates.
(It’s also good practice to quarantine any new horse to ensure that you aren’t introducing any illness into the barn…so “go slowly” for all the right reasons…not just turnout safety!)
OTTB owners sometimes report to us that their new horse gets fixated on a stable mate, or turnout buddy. During the adjustment period–when a horse is first acclimating to the new regimen away from the track–separation from a buddy may cause the OTTB to get agitated and call repeatedly, run the fence line, or to kick in the stall…
While most horses settle into farm life without incident, “civilian life” is very, very different from what the horse typically experiences at the track. There are generally horses in the shedrow 24 hours per day, there is a great deal of activity at many points throughout the day and the routine is the same, day after day.
By contrast, at many stables there is only a burst of activity during morning and evening feeding…with little activity at other times. Your new OTTB may not have a line of sight to barnmates, or their pasture pal may disappear for a long trail ride, or schooling session. Make sure that your new OTTB can see and hear his equine companions at all times to minimize stress, especially if their pasture mate is off being ridden.
If you have an in/out setup that often works wonders for a horse first arriving from the track, as they can dissipate nervous energy and adjust to outside life at their own pace.
Try to spend some extra time at the barn with your horse during the first few days home so that you have the opportunity to observe them in their new setting and reassure them if they get anxious. Remember: at the track horses are generally handled by the same groom day-in-and-day out, so they learn to form strong attachments to “their person”. This ability to bond tightly is one of the aspects that many OTTB owners especially appreciate about their horses.
OTTBs are generally quite intelligent and adaptable, so any drama will likely be short-lived!
___________________________________________________________
These are just a few of the “crazy” labels that we see applied…you’ve probably heard others. Your new OTTB probably isn’t nuts…but he does need retraining.
So be patient, and be aware that during the learning process your horse may have moments of panic.
Try to establish a workable routine to help your horse gain confidence in their new environment and talk with other, experienced OTTB owners to gain their insights.
You may find this book useful:
Beyond the Track: Retraining the Thoroughbred from Racecourse to Riding Horse (Paperback) ~ Anna Ford (Author), Amber Heintzberger (Author)
Good luck with your OTTB!
Horse Health Topics
This is part of a new series on OTTB health exploring common injuries, issues and concerns of interest to prospective Thoroughbred owners.
A Disclaimer: Of course we’re not veterinarians; we urge you to speak with a qualified professional about the x-rays and prognosis of the particular horse that you are considering.
|
Thoroughbreds are often broken to saddle and put into racing training as two year olds, long before they reach physical maturity. Race training is physically demanding and horses may suffer muscle and bone injuries, including development of “osselets”.
Prospective owners may note that a horse of interest in CANTER’s listing has “old osselets”…or “green osselets”. They wonder what an osselet is, whether the osselets will limit the horse, what short-term treatment may be required and what long-term management strategies are recommended.
The Merck Veterinary Manual offers the following definition: Osselets refer to an inflammation, usually bilateral, of the periosteum on the dorsal distal epiphyseal surface of the third metacarpal bone and the associated capsule of the fetlock joint. The proximal end of the first phalanx may also be involved. Hence, osselets constitutes a form of periostitis and serous arthritis that may progress to degenerative joint disease. The exciting cause is the strain and repeated trauma of hard training in young horses and is recognized as an occupational hazard of the young Thoroughbred.
“…osselets often brew in both front ankles at once, the lameness might manifest itself as a short, choppy gait, with no one leg visibly more sore than the other. If only one fetlock is involved, the horse will “point” the affected leg and try to avoid bearing weight on it. At that stage, the condition is sometimes called “green osselets.” — The Blood Horse
 Note the ankle enlargement. The left ankle is significantly more enlarged, which is common in OTTBs as they race and train "going left" much of the time. Questions to ask if you are considering a horse with osselets:
Are the osselets “set” or “green”? When the injury is acute–that is, when the injury first flares up, before there is bony overgrowth in the joint–an osselet is referred to as “green”.
Are both fetlocks involved, or just one?
Was the stress on the fetlock caused by a back-end weakness or injury, initially? (Often we see that injuries are “diagonal” — that is, an injury in the left front may, in fact, be the result of over-compensation for soreness in the right hind.)
Are there current x-rays available?
Is the horse currently lame?
Is the “interstitial” or joint space compromised; simply, has the joint injury damaged the horse’s cartilage ?
Do the x-rays show ulceration of the articular surfaces of the joint?
How do you recognize an osselet?
- The horse may have a short, choppy or uneven gait. If the osselet is “green” the joint may be warm, swollen and painful on palpitation;
- X-rays and external examination may reveal the presence of new bone formation. Fragments of bone may break off and interfere with joint flexion;
- The ligaments may be involved and irritation at the site of attachment may be seen.
Osselets may not significantly hamper the horse, or the joint damage may leave the horse totally unrideable. In severe cases–where the horse has continued to train and race even after the initial inflammation appeared–the excess bony development may result in a “locked” ankle, with no articulation, or movement. At this stage degenerative joint disease may significantly affect soundness and usability.
It’s worth noting that it is not always good to rely on visual examination alone. “Ugly” ankles may not actually hamper the horse as much as ankles with a less abnormal appearance, but with significant damage to articular surfaces, loss of cartilage, or lots of “joint mice” (bony fragments that have broken off from the osseous overgrowth).
Understand whether or not the osselets are changing, or “set”. If the ankle is stable, the horse is not lame, the joint space is intact and the animal’s condition hasn’t changed significantly in its recent history, then the vet may actually be able to give you a “thumbs up”, depending upon what job you have in mind for the horse. If the horse is young, the ankles are hot, there are chips in the joint and the joint spacing is compromised, the vet may suggest that you pass on the horse.
How Are Osselets Treated?
- Rest is very important and if the trauma is stopped in early cases long-term joint damage may be avoided.
- Relieving inflammation is important; cold hosing or ice wraps may be applied. Systemic anti-inflammatory drugs such as phenylbutazone (“Bute”) are often used to relieve swelling and pain.
- Corticosteroids may also be injected into the joint. But if a joint is injected, bute is given, and the horse is not taken out of training, this can lead to destruction of the joint surfaces and formation of excess bone.
- Injection of the joint with sodium hyaluronate may help to reestablish normal synovial viscosity. Synovial, or “joint fluid” is part of the the body’s normal shock absorbing system.
What is the Long-Term Prognosis for a Horse with Osselets?
Your veterinarian may recommend the following managing:
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If the osselet is “green” and the horse acutely lame, you may have to cold hose the horse 2-3 times per day, administer anti-inflammatory medication and keep the horse on stall rest or minimal turnout until the immediate joint trauma has passed.
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The horse with osselets requires good farrier care; a balanced and properly angled hoof is important to avoid stressing the joint.
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If the horse’s joint space is compromised–if they are missing cartilage–then you may want to discuss the use of medications to improve production of synovial fluid, which can cushion the joint. Medications like Adequan can be quite useful in the long-term management of joint conditions.
Other Resources to Learn About Osselets:
TheHorse.com
Knack Leg and Hoff Care for Horses
Equisearch
So…you’re thinking about getting an off-the-track-Thoroughbred (OTTB), but you’ve heard some things that concern you…
“They’re all lame”
“They’re all crazy”
“It will take you years to retrain one”
“OTTBs aren’t good on trails”
“OTTBs are hard keepers”
| In the interest of setting the record straight, we’re embarking on a little “myth busting”. Over the next few weeks we’ll talk about the myths–and the realities–of acquiring and retraining horses off the track.
By the way: CANTER strongly urges anyone who is considering a horse off the track to have a pre-purchase exam done to ensure that the horse they are considering is suitable for the job that it will be asked to do. It can save you heart ache, and it’s only fair to the horse to understand any potential limitations if you are seeking out a performance prospect.
We also suggest that you consider professional training assistance if you are not experienced with OTTBs.
These are (generally) green horses that have been trained to do a job that’s likely quite different than what you’ll be asking of it…
All this said: there are thousands of talented, sane, gorgeous OTTBs out there just waiting for a chance to shine once their racing days are over. |
Myth #1: “They’re All Lame”
No, they’re not.
It is true that many racehorses, especially at lower-level claiming tracks like Suffolk Downs (where horses generally race frequently,) are subjected to wear and tear.
Like all performance horses, they may have health issues that a prospective buyer should consider. And even a sound horse will have to transition physically and mentally from their racing regimen to life away from the track .
But it is not the case that all OTTBs are unsound, any more than it is the case that all Quarter Horses are navicular, or all Arabs flighty.
So Why Would a Horse Be for Sale If They’re Really Sound?
Horses are individuals, and Thoroughbreds may be for sale at the track for a number of reasons, which may, or may not, be soundness-related.
One of the primary reasons that trainers sell horses is that they simply aren’t paying their way.
At a track like Suffolk Downs owners may pay $50 – 75 per day in training fees; that’s not counting vet and farrier bills, insurance, entry fees and miscellaneous expenses.
Some horses are taken into training “on the cuff”. Under such an arrangement the trainer agrees to foot the bulk of the bills in return for a sizable share of potential earnings. No earnings, no return for the trainer…Voila! A CANTER listing is born!
“Bottom-level claimers” (horses offered for a fixed price announced at the time that the horse is entered) run at many tracks for total purse money of less than $7,000.
The winner takes 60% of a purse, so if the horse is running for $7,000 the winner takes home just $4,200. Out of this pot the owner must pay vet and farrier bills, a percentage to the jockey and trainer (unless the horse is running on the cuff) and insurance and entry fees. And winnings are taxed, too…
So, owners are typically paying $1,500 or more per month in training fees alone–plus shoeing, vet, and miscellaneous costs. The horse that doesn’t win every few weeks is a liability. And most horses don’t win every few weeks. Many never win a dime, or even make a start.
Each year there are approximately 35,000 Thoroughbreds registered with the Jockey Club. According to the newsletter of one well-known breeding operation: “One-third of all foals never make it to the track for even one race. Over one-half of those who do never win a single race.”
That leaves a lot of perfectly serviceable horses looking for “new careers”.
How Should I Evaluate a Horse at the Track for Soundness?
The Pre-Purchase Exam
- Consider the intended use of the animal and any specific concerns about the prospect that you are evaluating.
- Take into account the age, conformation, racing history, trainer, ownership history and presentation of the horse. It’s not always the case that “younger is better”. If a horse has run for a number of years and has stayed sound, then it’s likely to remain sound once off the track.
- Remember that a “cheap” horse can cost thousands if you uncover an issue once you’ve gotten the horse home and find out that it’s not suitable. Include PPE money into your budget: what you spend may depend, in part, on how much of an examination you want done (stem-to-stern, or just joint x-rays?) and what the exam includes (if you get x-rays, scope the horse, and get bloodwork done, it adds up).
As a starting point: have the vet do flexions and get a good set of x-rays on anything that shows up on flexion. Consider a full set of x-rays if you want to jump the horse. Ensure that heart/lungs/eyes are in order and examine the horse’s feet. Remember: no foot, no horse!
- It’s also not a bad idea to evaluate the prospect in relation to his stable mates; does he look significantly better, or worse, than the trainer’s other horses? A sad-looking horse in a shedrow of shiny and sleek runners might merit some discussion with the trainer.
- At some tracks there are vets who will do PPEs–just not on the horses of regular clients to avoid conflicts of interest. It may be more affordable to have a PPE done at the track, and you may not have the option of having a vet come onto the grounds or taking the horse off the grounds.
- Keep in mind that claiming horses may have changed hands multiple times, perhaps even running at different tracks in multiple states. So the current owner or trainer may have little or no information about the horse’s history. Consider running a start-by-start report to note any gaps in the horse’s racing history that seem unexplained. These cost about $5 and you can purchase one at brisnet.com.
- It is true that many racing Thoroughbreds do sustain injuries which may make them unsuitable for a second career, or which may limit their suitability for high-impact sports like advanced eventing, or open jumping. But not all injuries will permanently affect a horse. If the exam does reveal a problem have a frank discussion with the vet; it may be a manageable problem and one that you can live with if you love everything else about the horse.
If you are shopping for an OTTB, seek out a veterinarian experienced with Thoroughbreds coming off the track. They can offer guidance when evaluating a prospect and may have a better handle on the long-term prognosis for a horse with specific health, or soundness issues than a vet who has never tended to ex-racers.
Of course, we’re biased in our love for OTTBs…So we’d just remind you that some of the greatest competitors in equine history–horses like Might Tango and The Jones Boy, to name just two–were failed racers. Some had old injuries: Bill Steinkraus’ Olympic horse Snowbound suffered a bowed tendon and went on to win a gold medal.
Good luck finding your next horse–and remember–you might just find the horse of a lifetime in your local shedrow!
And stayed tuned for more “myth busting”!
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